Facing the Dragon - Chapter 4

“The U.S. expeditionary forces have gone so far as to consider the Vietnamese people as low-class creatures and that the fact of killing them didn’t constitute a crime – just like the spray of DDT poisonous substances to destroy the insects. They can’t enjoy any right whatsoever, even the right of ownership and the right to live.”

- Reporter Richard Hammer in his book entitled “Un Matin dans la guerre” Fayard, 1970, 102

“Yet we were wrong, terribly wrong. We owe it to our future generations to explain why. It was that mistake that has caused severe results toward the country and people of Vietnam.”

- Robert S. McNamara, former US Defense Secretary (In Retrospect – The Tragedy and Lessons of Vietnam)

These are quotes and excerpts from books that I wrote down while visiting the War Remnants Museum in Saigon today. This museum definitely uses shock tactics by displaying horrific photographs depicting ill treatment of Vietnamese citizens by U.S. forces. However, to discard what is on display at this museum as purely propaganda would not only be foolish, it would be a lie. I am appalled and in a state of disbelief at what I am seeing because these photographs are not fabricated, they are real. They are very real. Most Americans know very little about the Vietnam War. This chapter of American history is one of our best kept secrets. All we really know is how many American soldiers died and how many Vietnamese soldiers we killed. My high school history class told me nothing of the reality of this war. Then again, American high school history books are not written to tell the truth, as they are a form of propaganda themselves. To this day, it seems to me that Vietnam is a topic that the United States government prefers to avoid. I think many government officials who know the real facts surrounding this war would rather wait until seemingly no one remembers this calamity than to revisit our failures and attempt to learn from the mistakes of our past. Although Vietnam is an entirely different situation, I would be surprised to find many Germans who beam up with excitement when the subject of World War II comes up.

The first objects I encounter in the museum are a tank, 2 fighter jets and a large anti aircraft machine gun. I have never seen anything like this other than on TV. The size of one of the bombs on display leaves me in absolute awe. I can’t even imagine the size of the area that a bomb this size would destroy. My father would have found the UH-1 Huey Helicopter interesting since he worked on these models when he was stationed in Vietnam (in Plei Ku). However, the physical war remnants only keep my interest for so long. A strong sensation inside me is telling me that there is much more waiting for me in the wing of the museum that is inside the building surrounded by this courtyard. I listen to my intuition and walk inside.

I walk through the museum and see some truly horrible and disgusting photographs, deformed fetuses in jars and statistics that give me a better indication of just how catastrophic the Vietnam War was, especially for the Vietnamese. One particularly harrowing picture depicts a unit of American soldiers posing with the severed head of a VC soldier. Some of the American soldiers are smiling as if they are embarrassed while others pose with a cool, tough looking expression on their face.

As I walk around the museum and view the different exhibits, one thought in my mind blends into another. I think that I know more than the average American about the Vietnam War but I am starting to realize that I really know nothing at all. My knowledge is based on what I have read in some books that I think gave an objective account of what happened during the war. I am confused, very confused. The hardest thing for me to understand about the Vietnam War is why my country resorted to chemical warfare. We used Agent Orange, napalm and phosphorous on the people and countryside in mass quantities. While I do understand that huge ground sweeps of chemical warfare are theoretically a quick and easy way to pound an enemy into oblivion, isn’t there more thought that goes into making a decision of this magnitude? Is there an objective look at the costs of making this type of decision and the repercussions of making it? What about the costs to future societies, the environment and unborn children? What about the ethical costs?

Many people claim that the Vietnamese would have also used these chemicals if they had them at their disposal. I disagree with those who believe this to be the case. I do not believe that the Vietnamese would use this inhumane form of warfare on their own land knowing that it would result in decades of detrimental affects on the environment and many generations of people. I think about the world I live in today and our never-ending concern that the so called “rogue nations” may get their hands on chemical weapons. I think about all the news publications that talk of the imminent threat of terrorists and rogue nations detonating a bomb loaded with chemical weapons in a subway station, sports stadium or during a battle against ground soldiers in their own country. I think about Iraq and I think about Iran. Finally, I think about the United States. After all, the United States was the first country to use chemical weapons on a massive scale during the Vietnam War decades ago. This is a fact that too many people seem to want to forget. I am left with a sense of irony and a great sense of hypocrisy.

Chemical warfare has horrible short-term and long-term effects that can literally set back a society for decades. Vietnamese citizens and Vietnamese and American soldiers can certainly attest to this. As citizens of the world, we can only hope that these weapons are never used again on the scale that they were used in Vietnam. Visiting this museum has been an emotional, eye-opening and interesting experience. I am sure I am not the only person for whom the experience evoked pain, tears, sorrow and a certain degree of guilt. I can see the damage that was done to this country and being an American, I feel that I will always be indebted to Vietnam in some way. There is no retribution for the damage inflicted and I sincerely believe that those willing to take an objective look at the facts will come to the same conclusion.

In quite contrast, I walk over to the Notre Dame Cathedral immediately after exiting the War Remnants Museum. In the northern reach of Dong Khoi, the 19th century Notre Dame Cathedral stands in the middle of Saigon, almost as if it is naked. The Cathedral is impressive and is an extremely popular place for tourists, beggars, cyclo drivers and worshippers. After leaving the cathedral, I decide to visit the Jade Emperor Pagoda. This is a place of worship for a much different religion. Upon entering the pagoda, I see fantastic statues that hold burning incense sticks which contribute to a very serene environment. This pagoda was built by the city’s Cantonese community around the turn of the century and is still considered to be Saigon’s most captivating pagoda. From the outside, the pagoda appears to be rather ordinary until one draws closer bringing into view the huge mustaches on the gigantic, imposing statues that stand in front of the pagoda’s entrance. Again, I am left with the impression that Buddhism is a relaxed religion as the symbols, music and general atmosphere in and around the temple make for a tranquil environment.

From here, I hop aboard a cyclo and ask the driver to take me to the Reunification Palace. This seems to be a fitting place to be my last major sight in Saigon as it is considered by many to be the most striking and historically significant building in the city. On April 30th, 1975, North and South Vietnam were reunified here as the South Vietnamese army finally fell after a long, hard fight. Technically, the war ended on that day. In reality, the war continued for many years in the form of torture, discrimination and prejudice against the South Vietnamese. Some of these elements still exist today. Entering the palace, it is hard not to notice the distinctive 70’s feel of the decor. Many of the rooms are drab and feel antiquated but the reception room upstairs looks like it could be the setting for the shooting of a Neil Diamond video, including the tacky beverage refrigerator in the corner of the room. The grounds surrounding the palace are beautifully manicured and maintained with precision by a government that is very proud.

After a short and much needed rest back at the hotel, I head out for dinner with my fellow traveler Len. Len is a 55 year-old Australian psychologist who has been teaching English as part of the Australian Volunteers Association in Laos for the last 2 years. On holiday in Vietnam, Len earns local wages -- which amount to approximately 30 dollars per month -- teaching English in Laos. He is the only foreigner working at a huge school that includes 300 teachers and 30 English teachers. I am particularly intrigued by a story Len shares with me involving an accident he had on his bike that resulted in a severe head wound which caused him to miss 2 weeks of work. He recounts stories of students and fellow teachers who showed up at his home with home-cooked meals in hand for him. His colleagues and students shared what little they had with Len and their generosity has had a lasting effect on him. This is one of the reasons he is still in Laos. It is interesting to find out that Lao’s strict Communist government prohibits Len from receiving any additional compensation for tutoring students during off hours at his home. As a result, his students and others seeking additional instruction in English bring him humble gifts to show their gratitude. In some cases, they bring him 1 bottle of beer or enough coffee grounds for 2 cups of coffee. Len lives a very basic life that is in great contrast to the life he lived in Australia. However, it seems that the challenge of living on such meager means, along with the gratitude he receives from helping the Laotian people he describes as ‘harmless and wonderful’ have brought peace to him and given him the motivation he needs to continue on his plight.

Len’s life is fascinating to me. I cherish meeting people like Len and hearing about their experiences. It makes me think long and hard about my life and what I can do to give back to the world. Helping others is an amazing thing and what you give and receive from having life experiences like Len’s is difficult to comprehend if you haven’t been in a similar environment or had similar experiences.

Regarding the restaurant Len and I dined at this evening; I was especially interested in the restaurant’s kitchen. At one point, I actually walked through the kitchen to get to the bathroom, which was at the far end of the kitchen. This walk rewarded me with an up close and personal view of the extremely basic kitchen that is common to so many Vietnamese restaurants. It is amazing to me that the cooks are able to create such wonderful smells and flavors in such a simple, bare bones environment. There is a countertop with two people chopping meat, fish and vegetables with bottles of sauce and bunches of fresh herbs scattered across the counter. The actual cooking takes place on 3 woks which sit atop piles of glowing charcoal that sit directly on the ground. You can’t buy views like this. Staring in awe at what I see in front of me, it occurs to me that creating a meal is a special, almost holy experience that I take for granted almost every day.

After dinner, I stroll off by myself in the direction of the Caravelle Hotel. The hotel bar at the Caravelle purportedly offers the best views of Saigon in the city and this sounds like a fitting place for me to enjoy a drink on my last night in Saigon. The Caravelle is five star quality all the way. At a cost of 3$ for a local Vietnamese beer, this is one of the most expensive places to buy a drink in the city. The people staying and drinking at the Caravelle are among the more wealthy tourists visiting Saigon. By the looks of them, my guess is that most of these tourists are either Japanese or Korean. The women serving drinks have traditional Vietnamese dresses on and are very attractive. Feeling that I have been glancing in their direction a bit too often, I decide to leave after one beer and retire to my room for one last night of rest in Saigon.

As I lie in bed waiting to fall asleep, I feel a bit sad knowing that I will be leaving Saigon tomorrow. My first experiences in Asia have been in this wonderful city. I am not sure what is ahead of me in the following weeks, but I feel that Saigon will always have a special place in my heart. I have felt the charm of this city and its people and while I am excited to see more of Vietnam, I am also sad to leave. Saigon, the beating heart of Vietnam, has been very, very good to me.