Facing the Dragon - Chapter 16

My wake up time this morning felt even earlier than the numbers 5:30 that stared at me from the portable alarm clock sitting on the night stand next to my bed. As excited as I am about another scenic drive to Halong Bay, I wouldn’t object to another hour of sleep.

Making our way out of Hanoi, the highlands surrounding us on every side make for a lot of head turning. The well maintained roads also make for a much quicker and more relaxing ride than the bumpy ones I have grown accustomed too. If the state of the roads we are driving on was as bad as those in the South of the country, this trip would probably take us at least double the two and a half hours it has taken us to get to Halong Bay this morning. Arriving in Halong Bay, I am pleasantly surprised by our accommodations. They are a bit more luxurious than usual as we have a romantic villa with wonderful views of the Gulf of Tonkin.

We have 30 minutes to unpack and get settled before we are off and running again. However, this time our mode of transportation will be a boat since the sea is the only vantage point from which we will be able to truly appreciate and realize the beauty of the mostly forsaken and unquestionably gorgeous Gulf of Tonkin.

It is easy to see why people are drawn to Halong Bay. The scenery and environment feels mystical. The channels have a feeling of secrecy and if you are fortunate enough to know of them, you will then witness thousands of limestone islands that jet out of the sea as you meander along on your vessel. These islands represent the beauty that only Mother Nature can deliver and she does so emphatically. Island after island, there are a myriad of different shapes that grasp the gaze of the passerby and refuse to let it go. You cannot design anything this stunning. It just is. Halong Bay is sometimes referred to as the 8th wonder of the world and it is easy to understand why it earns that designation. I can only say that the beauty I have encountered here has helped to bring me closer to, and more at peace with, nature.

During our trip on the gulf, we make stops to climb through a cave located inside one of the islands and also take time to enjoy the warm waters of the Gulf of Tonkin at a small beach off of one of the larger islands. It feels nice to linger in the water and relax with the other visitors to this area. The beautiful surroundings make it easy to understand why Regis Wargnier chose this setting as the backdrop for his film, Indochine.

For lunch, we have a wonderful seafood buffet on board highlighted by fresh squid, fish and shrimp along with rice and vegetables. I am full and satisfied as I sit back and enjoy the ride back into shore. During the ride, I have a nice conversation with the girl on board who cooked us lunch and who is also attempting to sell us some homemade jewelry that I presume she made. I buy a black coral ring from her and enjoy talking to her. Her name is Dung. She is a 28 year old woman from Halong City and she is very interested to find out about my life and career in the United States. Dung tells me that she is learning English and that she works on the boats in addition to helping her family farm the land that they own.

After a prolonged rest in our villa, we head into Halong City for an evening seafood meal. Eating anything else in this area would be almost criminal. I have crab soup and sweet and sour shrimp. Most of the restaurants in this area are filled with tourists, which results in an influx of beggars. Despite what I have seen and experienced in other parts of the country, some of the things I see leave me a bit unsettled.

One man that I give some money too is missing both an arm and a leg. I also see a young teenage boy pull a horribly disfigured woman, possibly his mother, through the streets on a cart in the hopes of earning a few dong notes. Both of her arms and legs are disfigured to the point that it would be impossible for her to walk or stand up on her own. I also see a girl, who is probably no more than 5 years old, with a baby girl on her back. The baby looks to be seriously ill. I look into the baby’s eyes and can sense the gravity of the situation. I feel helpless as all I can do is hand these people a few dong notes before moving on.

In a place like Halong Bay that is amid so much natural beauty, it is ironic but fitting that my last images of this place are those of the poor, disfigured and destitute. All things have their place in this world and in no instance is something absolutely good or bad or beautiful or ugly. There are no absolutes. There is only reality.